Goodbye Santiago/Hello Life

Goodbye St James the Pilgrim and St James the Matamoor Slayer.

I flew out of Santiago on Tuesday 18 October 2011. This was 5 days earlier than I planned, but with me not walking to Finisterre I found myself all of a sudden restless and ready to go.

My plane left from La Coruna airport which was about an hour by bus from Santiago. The bus driver thought he was doing me a favour and dropped me off on the highway. There I was, trekking (limping) up the hill not sure where I was going. But all was well, soon the aeroporto appeared on my left hand side, people were speaking English and I was on my way to Britian.

Sitting at the airport I had mixed feelings, some sadness, elation because I was going to see my kids and a feeling of having left something somewhere. Maybe a little bit of myself stayed behind.

This is the 2nd to last post on the El Camino and I hope you enjoyed journeying with me on the Field of Stars.

Perplexed Peregrino

Pilgrims Mass and Swinging of the Botafumeiro

I went to the Pilgrims Mass on Saturday. Very little English, so I did not get much of the message but it felt special somehow and by now I was over my initial disgust of all the tourists who were doing the pilgrim thing!

The most amazing part of the mass was the swinging of the Botafumeiro. On Friday night I met a pilgrim who walked the Portuguese Route and he told me that the Botafumeiro was swinging on the Friday and that it was still hanging there, which meant it would swing again. Well, it swinged!!! This is a highlight of the pilgrimage and I felt very priviledged to see it. (I did smile when the priests were applauded very loudly at the end of it and realised that most people were there not for the mass but for the Swinging of the Thingy)!

The Santiago de Compostela Botafumeiro is the largest censer in the world, weighing 80 kg and measuring 1.60 m in height. It is usually on exhibition in the library of the cathedral, but on holy days it is attached to the pulley mechanism and filled with 40 kg of charcoal and incense. It takes 6 to 8 men (priests) to pull the ropes and bring it into a swinging motion almost to the roof of the transept, reaching speeds of 60 km/h and dispensing thick clouds of incense. One tradition has it that the use of a swinging censer in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral began in the 11th century to mask the smell of the tired and unwashed pilgrims. It was also believed that incense smoke had a prophylactic effect in the time of plagues and epidemics. Of course, incense burning is also an important part of the liturgy, being an "oration to God", or form of prayer.

Some technical info for those of you who are interested : The Botafumeiro can reach speeds of 68 km/h as it dispenses thick clouds of incense. At the top of the swing, it reaches heights of 21 meters. It swings in a 65 meter arc between the Azabachería and Praterias doorways at the ends of the transept. The maximum angle achieved is about 82°. The maximum can be reached after about 17 cycles, and requires about 80 seconds of swinging. It costs about R3000 to fill it and swing it, so I was really very surprised to find myself being part of this.


It is quite spectacular and goes hand in hand with people shrieking and sighing as it swings above their heads and miss the stained glass windows. I am sure there would be a video on Youtube for those of you who would like to see this.

Incensed Peregrino

Finisterra

When I started planning my pilgrimage I really wanted to continue from Santiago to Finisterra which was another 5 days of walking. However, my foot was not getting better, swelling down in the mornings and then very bad if I walked a lot during the day. The way to Finisterre had many little hills and valleys and I realised that the clever thing would be to take a bus - so, for all of you non believers out there,I am not as hard headed as you think I am!!!

I took a bus to Finisterre on Sunday the 16th of October and what a beautiful 3 hour ride it was. I might go back - big might - and walk this last bit for myself.

In the times of the Romans and Celts, Finisterre (called "finis terrae") was considered to be at the farthest edge of the north westerly land mass and was described as "the end of the earth" (in Latin, "finis terrae" means "end of the world"). Finisterre also possesses a reputation for being on "the coast of death", since many vessels have left the port, never to return.

I met the lovely Irishman Paul and spend the day on the beach with him. On the way back to the bus stop we met up with Eli and the two of us forged an immediate bond. Spent some time with her in Santiago. Finisterre is magical, the beaches are beautiful and sitting there I got this deep, deep longing for Bloubergstrand and everything South African.

The mist started rolling in as we left Finisterra and somehow I knew that my journey had come to an end. . not just the physical journey but also the inner journey. Sitting on the beach, I knew that I have found an inner peace that would not be easily disturbed by whatever life choose to throw at me when I go back.

Peaceful Peregrino

Santiago!!

I walked into Santiago on Friday the 14th October at about 3 in the afternoon fully expecting a red carpet, rose petals, trumpets and the bishop (no less) to greet me after my long and arduous journey! What a let-down it was. Nobody even knew that I arrived!!

Traditionally, the Pilgrims Journey ends with a walk up the stairs to the Statue of St James but there were so many tourists in the cathedral and a long line waiting to go up the stairs. Oh!! The disgust I experienced when I saw them all with a newly bought staff with gourd and shell. This was being sold just outside the gate into the cathedral and I felt a self-righteous annoyance because these tourists had no idea of doing a pilgrimage and yet here they are strutting around with their wooden staffs! Tut, tut, Willemien!! Judgements, judgements. . and I thought I was getting so good and not judging. I proceeded to the pilgrims office to claim my compostela. . and once again. . .no fanfare, no “Wow!! You walked all the way from St Jean??” Nada, nothing, niks, more disgust. . .This is obviously all in fun, but I did experience Santiago as very touristy.
Anyway, this was not a good moment for me so I decided to go and find my pension, book in, have a shower and just generally ease myself into the hustle and bustle of Santiago.
Santiago is very expensive compared to the more rural areas – paid 20 Euros for a plate of Spaghetti Bolognaise and a glass of wine! Buying my Euros with South African Rands obviously did not help! Beer with Lemon went from between 1.50 and 2.50 Euros to 4 Euros and coffee was also more expensive. I walked around Santiago (or rather limped), slept really well that night and set out to explore more of the city the next morning.
I could still not believe that I was in Santiago, that I have done it, that is is over!!

Amazed Peregrino