Oh how I wish I could upload pictures!!!!
This post is all about walking, eating and sleeping. The walking part is difficult for me. It would have been much easier if I had been much fitter. . . but here I am, hopefully getting fitter every day, but suffering because I did not do enough training beforehand.
I would usually start walking when it is still dark. Have some beautiful sunrise photos. . that I can not share. . .
Walking is easier for me if there is little villages every 4km´s or so. If it is a long stretch it just seems to go on and on and ooooon. . .I would usually stop at a bar - always open - always ready to serve the peregrino - and have a cup of coffee, coca cola or. . . wait for it. . .a beer with lemon. . .very refreshing and yes I have now started drinking beer early in the day. . . :-)
Lunch would usually be fruit, or bread and cheese, whatever I could buy in the last village and then obviously lots of water to keep hydrated. The sun gets really hot here in Spain, very much like a South African summer day - I have walked in temperatures of 34° on occasion.
I usually read up about all the accommodation and choose a place that looks good, but by the time I reach my planned destination I just take the first auberge that pops up in front of me. . .sometimes they dont pop up and you have to go searching for them. . .
The auberges are mostly at least 8 beds in a room, more often than not 20 - 50 in the same room. Beds are usually bunk beds, I have stayed in 2 places that had single beds and loved it. Mostly 2 toilets and 2 showers, but some of the bigger ones might have 4 toilets and showers to one dormitory. I have only on one occasion found an auberge that separated women and men (this includes the bathrooms). This I have to say takes some getting used to for me. . . I have also on accasion had people walk around, lie around or lounge around in their underwear only. This does not sit well with me. .
I find that when I am walking, even if I know that there is something really interesting, I just do not have the energy to explore or take photographs.
The only times I really take photographs is after I have reached my destination, claimed my bed and had my shower.
Some of the auberges - usually the ones that is connected to a parish, will cook a communal meal and offer you breakfast. If the auberge does not have good kitchen facilities then you have to GO OUT ON THE TOWN and have the pilgrims menu. The Pilgrims Menu can cost anything from 8 to 12 Euros and always includes a starter, main course and dessert as well as wine.
Well, there you have it. . all in a days´ work . . .
As always, much love. . .
Wild Peregrino
Tuesday 27 September 2011
Footprints
I am a very much a solo pilgrim. Around me people form little groups, walking together and meeting up every now and again.
I enjoy the solitude of walking alone, sitting at a sidewalk cafe having coffee and immersed in my own thoughts.
When I walk and I see all the footprints left by the pilgrims who have gone before me on the day, I wonder how many hundreds of pilgrims have walked this path in the last year and how many thousands through the ages. . .
I wonder how many broken and wounded spirits, people with heavy burdens (not the ones on their backs), hurting people, have walked this way before. How many people have gone this way in search of answers, in search of God, in search of healing, worn down with worry, sorrow and pain. How many of them have found what they were looking for? How many knew what they were looking for? How many has given up? How many has continued the growth even after the Camino journey ended?
Many questions go through my mind. Mostly unanswered. People ask me if I am enjoying my holiday - but this is not a holiday. I could have gone to some excotic place and have a really good time for the same money. But this is more - it is a quest, a journey, a searching, a yearning that I can not explain in words.
I am certainly learning to let go off all my little quirks . . . on the Camino you simply do not have the luxury of doing things your way, or having things your way. I dry my face and my hair and my body and my shoes with the same towel and then put the towel on my wet hair again!!! Oh, the little stupid things that holds us bondage. At home I would never wipe my shoes dry and use the same towel for my hair or my body. . and what does it matter really???? What matters is that I have hot water for a shower and a bug free bed. . .that is just so much more important . . and an added bonus is an alimentation - a store where I can buy fruit for the next day´s breakfast or lunch. Finding Yogurt makes my day and if I find an auberge with a proper kitchen - well I am in heaven, because then I can make a salad and do not have to eat the Pilgrims Dinner.
More on the next blog about eating and sleeping. . .
Until then,
Ultreia!!!
Wild Peregrino
I enjoy the solitude of walking alone, sitting at a sidewalk cafe having coffee and immersed in my own thoughts.
When I walk and I see all the footprints left by the pilgrims who have gone before me on the day, I wonder how many hundreds of pilgrims have walked this path in the last year and how many thousands through the ages. . .
I wonder how many broken and wounded spirits, people with heavy burdens (not the ones on their backs), hurting people, have walked this way before. How many people have gone this way in search of answers, in search of God, in search of healing, worn down with worry, sorrow and pain. How many of them have found what they were looking for? How many knew what they were looking for? How many has given up? How many has continued the growth even after the Camino journey ended?
Many questions go through my mind. Mostly unanswered. People ask me if I am enjoying my holiday - but this is not a holiday. I could have gone to some excotic place and have a really good time for the same money. But this is more - it is a quest, a journey, a searching, a yearning that I can not explain in words.
I am certainly learning to let go off all my little quirks . . . on the Camino you simply do not have the luxury of doing things your way, or having things your way. I dry my face and my hair and my body and my shoes with the same towel and then put the towel on my wet hair again!!! Oh, the little stupid things that holds us bondage. At home I would never wipe my shoes dry and use the same towel for my hair or my body. . and what does it matter really???? What matters is that I have hot water for a shower and a bug free bed. . .that is just so much more important . . and an added bonus is an alimentation - a store where I can buy fruit for the next day´s breakfast or lunch. Finding Yogurt makes my day and if I find an auberge with a proper kitchen - well I am in heaven, because then I can make a salad and do not have to eat the Pilgrims Dinner.
More on the next blog about eating and sleeping. . .
Until then,
Ultreia!!!
Wild Peregrino
Camino Lessons
More and more I am learning that the Camino is in fact an inner journey that you take. I might be walking strange paths and through fascinating little villages and meeting interesting people, but really the journey is inside myself. It is also not a journey that will end when I reach Santiago or Finnisterre but it is a journey that should never end.
By the end of my third week I was walking really well. All my feet problems have been sorted out and my blisters started turning into callouses. . .never thought I would think that callouses is good, but when you walk it certainly is!
On Sunday morning I left Boadilla del Camino after spending a night in a wonderful auberge - En El Camino - complete with swimming pool nogal!! All facilities were great and there was also the delightful Eduardo who told me that I am sweet enough. . . A wonderful family and Eduardo a bit of a flirt but all in good spirit.
As I walked out of Fromista I wanted to climb up from the road to the walkway but slipped and fell. A little bit shaken I assessed the damage and concluded that I only scraped my right shin a bit.
I stopped for coffee in Poblacion de Campos to lift my flagging spirits and when I started walking again was dismayed to find that my right ankle was swollen, stiff and painful.
The next six kilometers were not my best. I made it to Villarmentero de Campos where I stayed the night. . . shared the accommodation with 4 French people and 3 mice! The mice were nice!! Not my best night. . .
The nagging question for me - what is it that I have to learn?? The first two and a half weeks of my journey I was in pain most of the time so really did not enjoy the walking. I have gone from 22 - 25kms a day to abut 16 - 20 kms a day. So, if the lesson for me was to SLOW DOWN - then I have certainly done so. I HAVE SLOWED DOWN!! I really believed that this was one of the things that the Camino is teaching me. . .but falling and hurting my right leg?????? REALLY!!! I am just a tiny little bit fed up.
I know that for many years I have not always been listening to my body and maybe also ignored pain. . . physical as well as emotional. So maybe I need to learn to FEEL? FEEL the pain, push through and move on. . .
Those of you who know me well will know that I do not lack resilience and yet at the moment I feel as if I have none.
I am taking the train into Leon tomorrow morning to give my leg a rest and will then start walking again from there.
Keep the emails coming. . I really need it. . and thank you to all of you who mail me every now and then with a word of encouragement!
Ultreia!!!! On, and on, and on I walk (why am I doing this again??)
Wild Peregrino :-)
By the end of my third week I was walking really well. All my feet problems have been sorted out and my blisters started turning into callouses. . .never thought I would think that callouses is good, but when you walk it certainly is!
On Sunday morning I left Boadilla del Camino after spending a night in a wonderful auberge - En El Camino - complete with swimming pool nogal!! All facilities were great and there was also the delightful Eduardo who told me that I am sweet enough. . . A wonderful family and Eduardo a bit of a flirt but all in good spirit.
As I walked out of Fromista I wanted to climb up from the road to the walkway but slipped and fell. A little bit shaken I assessed the damage and concluded that I only scraped my right shin a bit.
I stopped for coffee in Poblacion de Campos to lift my flagging spirits and when I started walking again was dismayed to find that my right ankle was swollen, stiff and painful.
The next six kilometers were not my best. I made it to Villarmentero de Campos where I stayed the night. . . shared the accommodation with 4 French people and 3 mice! The mice were nice!! Not my best night. . .
The nagging question for me - what is it that I have to learn?? The first two and a half weeks of my journey I was in pain most of the time so really did not enjoy the walking. I have gone from 22 - 25kms a day to abut 16 - 20 kms a day. So, if the lesson for me was to SLOW DOWN - then I have certainly done so. I HAVE SLOWED DOWN!! I really believed that this was one of the things that the Camino is teaching me. . .but falling and hurting my right leg?????? REALLY!!! I am just a tiny little bit fed up.
I know that for many years I have not always been listening to my body and maybe also ignored pain. . . physical as well as emotional. So maybe I need to learn to FEEL? FEEL the pain, push through and move on. . .
Those of you who know me well will know that I do not lack resilience and yet at the moment I feel as if I have none.
I am taking the train into Leon tomorrow morning to give my leg a rest and will then start walking again from there.
Keep the emails coming. . I really need it. . and thank you to all of you who mail me every now and then with a word of encouragement!
Ultreia!!!! On, and on, and on I walk (why am I doing this again??)
Wild Peregrino :-)
Saturday 24 September 2011
Boadilla del Camino
Boadilla del Camino today! Really beautiful auberge with a swimming pool nogal!! Unfortunately I mailed my swimsuit on to Santiago (I can always do the naked thing. . . heheh)
Taking me some time to get used to people walking in their underwear only. It does not sit well with me. . and last night it was an elderly lady lounging around in her panties and 50ish gentleman walking around in his underpants only. SO NOT A PRETTY PICTURE. . . I HAD NIGHTMARES LAST NIGHT!!
As dit nou ´n jong 28 jarige mannetjie was, sou ek dalk nie gekla het nie. . ;-)
I am beginning to get my own rythm although I must say that walking in the heat today I wondered what on earth I was doing and whatever got into me when I started planning this. . .
Monday will be the start of my 4th week!!! It is amazing how the days just flow into each other and how difficult it has become to keep track of which day of the week it is. .
My feet is good as long as I dont try to do 25km stretches. . and they are really happy when I stop around 20kms.
Thats all from me for now. . . sitting working on a fairly new laptop so I am going to try and upload some photographs.
Mucho Love!!
xxxx
Wild Peregrino
Taking me some time to get used to people walking in their underwear only. It does not sit well with me. . and last night it was an elderly lady lounging around in her panties and 50ish gentleman walking around in his underpants only. SO NOT A PRETTY PICTURE. . . I HAD NIGHTMARES LAST NIGHT!!
As dit nou ´n jong 28 jarige mannetjie was, sou ek dalk nie gekla het nie. . ;-)
I am beginning to get my own rythm although I must say that walking in the heat today I wondered what on earth I was doing and whatever got into me when I started planning this. . .
Monday will be the start of my 4th week!!! It is amazing how the days just flow into each other and how difficult it has become to keep track of which day of the week it is. .
My feet is good as long as I dont try to do 25km stretches. . and they are really happy when I stop around 20kms.
Thats all from me for now. . . sitting working on a fairly new laptop so I am going to try and upload some photographs.
Mucho Love!!
xxxx
Wild Peregrino
Thursday 22 September 2011
The Meseta
Just a quick note, to put you all at ease. The melancholy left me once I started walking on the Meseta.. .
Last night someone asked me why I was doing the Camino. I could not really give them an answer.
All of you are sending me lovele messages saying, clear your head, fight your demons, leave everything behind.. ..
Am I doing any of this. . I honestly do not know.
Am I clearing my Head : I dont know
Am I getting answers : I dont know
Am I leaving things behind : I dont know
Maybe at some unconscious level I am doing some clearing etc. but honestly right now I feel as if all I am doing is putting one foot in front of the other to get to the next town.
I am walking easier and finding my rythm, nearly 3 weeks into the camino. . . blisters getting better. . . feet not so sore anymore. . . hmmm. . . I can do a rhyme here. . . sore, more, blore, blore, blore. . .
The lesson that I am learning is that maybe I am doing the Camino to learn to slow down instead of speeding up. . .
Until next time, because this flicking keyboard is driving me up the ancient walls of this village. . .where am I again today . . . oh yes . .. Hontana. . .
It is difficult to believe that I have been walking for nearly three weeks now. . . time passes without me really having any idea of what day of the week it is. . .
Nearly half way. . .
Much love,
Wild Peregrino. .
Last night someone asked me why I was doing the Camino. I could not really give them an answer.
All of you are sending me lovele messages saying, clear your head, fight your demons, leave everything behind.. ..
Am I doing any of this. . I honestly do not know.
Am I clearing my Head : I dont know
Am I getting answers : I dont know
Am I leaving things behind : I dont know
Maybe at some unconscious level I am doing some clearing etc. but honestly right now I feel as if all I am doing is putting one foot in front of the other to get to the next town.
I am walking easier and finding my rythm, nearly 3 weeks into the camino. . . blisters getting better. . . feet not so sore anymore. . . hmmm. . . I can do a rhyme here. . . sore, more, blore, blore, blore. . .
The lesson that I am learning is that maybe I am doing the Camino to learn to slow down instead of speeding up. . .
Until next time, because this flicking keyboard is driving me up the ancient walls of this village. . .where am I again today . . . oh yes . .. Hontana. . .
It is difficult to believe that I have been walking for nearly three weeks now. . . time passes without me really having any idea of what day of the week it is. . .
Nearly half way. . .
Much love,
Wild Peregrino. .
Bathroom Dialog : Warning : Not for Sensitive Readers
So I cannot find the exclamation mark on this keyboard and I really do need it. .
Bathroom or Toilet Dialog : Week 1
Me : Surprised Look on my Face
The Door is closed is it not . . . Question Mark, Question Mark
. . .can not find the flicking thing on this keyboard so prepare yourself for a really interesting read. .
Yes, It is Closed and Locked because I am inside sitting on the loo : Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
No, it is not stuck, it is locked : Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Fluck : Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Fluck It is Locked
Go Away, Voetsek, Los my Uit, If you touch that door again I am going to come out and kill you with my bare hands Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation MarkExclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Bathroom or Toilet Dialog : Week 2
Well, the door is closed and it is definitely locked, so maybe you can go away and leave me in peace ; Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Yes, it is in fact locked and not stuck, there is someone inside, voetsek Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Bathroom or Toilet Dialog : Week 3
Oh fluck off : the door is locked, go away, voetsek, take a number, just leave me alone..
+++++
My sincere apologies if the above post offended you. . . .I just had to get it out. . hehe. .. . maybe in European countries doors are always closed and you have to try it to make sure if the loo is available or not.
Ultreia
Wild Very Wild Peregrino
Bathroom or Toilet Dialog : Week 1
Me : Surprised Look on my Face
The Door is closed is it not . . . Question Mark, Question Mark
. . .can not find the flicking thing on this keyboard so prepare yourself for a really interesting read. .
Yes, It is Closed and Locked because I am inside sitting on the loo : Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
No, it is not stuck, it is locked : Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Fluck : Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Fluck It is Locked
Go Away, Voetsek, Los my Uit, If you touch that door again I am going to come out and kill you with my bare hands Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation MarkExclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Bathroom or Toilet Dialog : Week 2
Well, the door is closed and it is definitely locked, so maybe you can go away and leave me in peace ; Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Yes, it is in fact locked and not stuck, there is someone inside, voetsek Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark, Exclamation Mark
Bathroom or Toilet Dialog : Week 3
Oh fluck off : the door is locked, go away, voetsek, take a number, just leave me alone..
+++++
My sincere apologies if the above post offended you. . . .I just had to get it out. . hehe. .. . maybe in European countries doors are always closed and you have to try it to make sure if the loo is available or not.
Ultreia
Wild Very Wild Peregrino
Tuesday 20 September 2011
Stupid, stupid, stupid Peregrino
Hola from Burgos,
I am in Burgos today and do not like it one little bit. It is amazing how quickly I came to dislike the hustle and bustle of the bigger towns. It is also my impression that in the bigger towns, the pilgrims really do get ripped off.
I am alone in a fairly big city and I guess that would contribute to my grumpiness, but my camera´s card reader does not work on the Spanish computers. These card readers cost in the region of 5 Euros and here in Burgos they want 18 Euros for it. . . which I will not be paying.
So if you were wondering why I have not posted any pictures now you know why.
But, to give you a bit of a giggle. . . coming into Burgos today I met people that I have seen on the way - they suggested I book into a pension which was close by. I did - at a price that I should have known better and then later realised that I was the only person in this rickety, dark, slightly scary building. I then promptly packed up and moved on to the auberge which is surprisingly good and they have Internet access for a 1/3 of the price that I paid at the pension!! Lesson learnt - DO NOT ALWAYS ACT IN HASTE - which is something I regularly do. I feel much better now, surrounded by other pilgrims in a modern building etc.
Tomorrow I plan to walk as far as Rabe de las Calzados or if I have it in me, maybe onto Hornillos del Camino. My energy is not a problem, but I have blisters on my two small toes and a large one under the ball of my right foot. It just makes walking really painful. . . not so bad when I start out but then the last hour of so of the journey becomes just a bit too much for me. My left ankle and foot also aches quite a bit after a hard days´ walking, but pain killers work well for that.
Some mornings I start the day with joy in my heart and a cocktail of pain killers. . .heheh . .other days I start with joy only.
Those of you who know me well, might pick up that I am a bit melancholy today. . . I think it is the big city, being all alone, not understanding the language, feeling a bit homesick. . . all of it rolled into one. . .I am a real sissy today. . .
I will be saying goodbye. . . .no sense writing when the tears are flowing. . and I said you will know when I am happy and when I am sad. . .
Much love as always. .
Wild (Sad) Peregrino
I am in Burgos today and do not like it one little bit. It is amazing how quickly I came to dislike the hustle and bustle of the bigger towns. It is also my impression that in the bigger towns, the pilgrims really do get ripped off.
I am alone in a fairly big city and I guess that would contribute to my grumpiness, but my camera´s card reader does not work on the Spanish computers. These card readers cost in the region of 5 Euros and here in Burgos they want 18 Euros for it. . . which I will not be paying.
So if you were wondering why I have not posted any pictures now you know why.
But, to give you a bit of a giggle. . . coming into Burgos today I met people that I have seen on the way - they suggested I book into a pension which was close by. I did - at a price that I should have known better and then later realised that I was the only person in this rickety, dark, slightly scary building. I then promptly packed up and moved on to the auberge which is surprisingly good and they have Internet access for a 1/3 of the price that I paid at the pension!! Lesson learnt - DO NOT ALWAYS ACT IN HASTE - which is something I regularly do. I feel much better now, surrounded by other pilgrims in a modern building etc.
Tomorrow I plan to walk as far as Rabe de las Calzados or if I have it in me, maybe onto Hornillos del Camino. My energy is not a problem, but I have blisters on my two small toes and a large one under the ball of my right foot. It just makes walking really painful. . . not so bad when I start out but then the last hour of so of the journey becomes just a bit too much for me. My left ankle and foot also aches quite a bit after a hard days´ walking, but pain killers work well for that.
Some mornings I start the day with joy in my heart and a cocktail of pain killers. . .heheh . .other days I start with joy only.
Those of you who know me well, might pick up that I am a bit melancholy today. . . I think it is the big city, being all alone, not understanding the language, feeling a bit homesick. . . all of it rolled into one. . .I am a real sissy today. . .
I will be saying goodbye. . . .no sense writing when the tears are flowing. . and I said you will know when I am happy and when I am sad. . .
Much love as always. .
Wild (Sad) Peregrino
Camino Rhymes 1
Oh Lord
In this vast open space
All I want is to see your face
All I need is to know your grace
To meet with You in this vast open space
------------------
In this vast open space
All I want is to see your face
All I need is to know your grace
To meet with You in this vast open space
------------------
Monday 19 September 2011
The Last 3 Kilometers
Hola everybody. .. .
I am in Villafranca Montes de Orca. The last 3 kilometres of a day just kills me. I was thinking today how a day journey for me - about 22km - can be done by car or bus in less than 15 minutes! Got me thinking how we have really revved up our lives and how we have to keep going at that insane pace!
Working on a computer that I really do not understand, but will blog again tomorrow or when I arrive in Burgos.
In the meantime, I am well, my feet are better - 2 huge blisters on my small toes, bought some toe condoms!! Yes!!! Even your toes need protection in Spain.
Much love
Wild Peregrino. . . xxxxx
I am in Villafranca Montes de Orca. The last 3 kilometres of a day just kills me. I was thinking today how a day journey for me - about 22km - can be done by car or bus in less than 15 minutes! Got me thinking how we have really revved up our lives and how we have to keep going at that insane pace!
Working on a computer that I really do not understand, but will blog again tomorrow or when I arrive in Burgos.
In the meantime, I am well, my feet are better - 2 huge blisters on my small toes, bought some toe condoms!! Yes!!! Even your toes need protection in Spain.
Much love
Wild Peregrino. . . xxxxx
Saturday 17 September 2011
Pilgrims Day
Hola!!!
It is Saturday Night here in Santa Domingo. I have been enjoying the Rioja (pronounced Rioka) wines and this may not be the best time to write a blog :-)
I want to tell you how difficult it is to be a pilgrim. Oh, all the planning that goes into my day! It drives me crazy. .. hehe. . . nothing could be further from the truth. Life is so amazingly simple. I only have to decide how far I need to go the next day, make sure I have breakfast and lunch in my pack, enough water to take me through the day. . and voila!!! I am all set to go. . .
This is basically how it works. .. .
I will start the day before. . . I walk as far as I can - which in my case is 22km max!! By then I am ready to fall down dead. . . I find an auberge. . . . this immediately makes me come back to life again because I can now stop walking. . . then 1st priority is a shower. . . . oh how heavenly water can be on a tired body. Sometimes if it is allowed I also do my washing in the shower. . . (ek trap dit skoon hehehe). If I can do it in the shower then 2nd priority has been taken care off. Then I sort out my bed - do the bedbug spray thing. . although I have not met any of those pesky little creatures yet. . . . and then if there is anything left. . . I go and explore the town.
So, basically, at 5:30 in the mornings I get up. .. start walking soon after 6 and then walk until about hmmm. .. anything from 12:00 to 14:00 depending on the terrain and also how many ups and downs I encountered. The reason I start so early is firstly because of the incredibe heat, but that seems to be cooling down and then secondly to make sure you get a bed for the night. The one thing I have to say. . .I have yet to walk a flat road or terrain. .. all of it is up little hills and down little valleys. . I am sure this road was designed to make it as hard as possible. Many times I cross the same road that goes fairly flat but here I am, struggling up the hill and sliding down the hill. . .
You have to make sure that you time your walking so that you get to an auberge - preferably not later than 14:00 otherwise you might find it COMPLETO (which translates to full). .. this is a scary word for a weary pilgrim. . .if there is no other auberge in the town, it means walking to the next town. . . .well, for me, it basically means falling apart. . .
And that is that, my whole day planned from beginning to end . . . .
I will leave you with hug and a kiss and go and sort my backpack ready to go tomorrow morning.
P.S. I have not been able to upload any photos. . .will make a plan. .. otherwise you will just have to buy the book. ..
Much love!!
Willemien
It is Saturday Night here in Santa Domingo. I have been enjoying the Rioja (pronounced Rioka) wines and this may not be the best time to write a blog :-)
I want to tell you how difficult it is to be a pilgrim. Oh, all the planning that goes into my day! It drives me crazy. .. hehe. . . nothing could be further from the truth. Life is so amazingly simple. I only have to decide how far I need to go the next day, make sure I have breakfast and lunch in my pack, enough water to take me through the day. . and voila!!! I am all set to go. . .
This is basically how it works. .. .
I will start the day before. . . I walk as far as I can - which in my case is 22km max!! By then I am ready to fall down dead. . . I find an auberge. . . . this immediately makes me come back to life again because I can now stop walking. . . then 1st priority is a shower. . . . oh how heavenly water can be on a tired body. Sometimes if it is allowed I also do my washing in the shower. . . (ek trap dit skoon hehehe). If I can do it in the shower then 2nd priority has been taken care off. Then I sort out my bed - do the bedbug spray thing. . although I have not met any of those pesky little creatures yet. . . . and then if there is anything left. . . I go and explore the town.
So, basically, at 5:30 in the mornings I get up. .. start walking soon after 6 and then walk until about hmmm. .. anything from 12:00 to 14:00 depending on the terrain and also how many ups and downs I encountered. The reason I start so early is firstly because of the incredibe heat, but that seems to be cooling down and then secondly to make sure you get a bed for the night. The one thing I have to say. . .I have yet to walk a flat road or terrain. .. all of it is up little hills and down little valleys. . I am sure this road was designed to make it as hard as possible. Many times I cross the same road that goes fairly flat but here I am, struggling up the hill and sliding down the hill. . .
You have to make sure that you time your walking so that you get to an auberge - preferably not later than 14:00 otherwise you might find it COMPLETO (which translates to full). .. this is a scary word for a weary pilgrim. . .if there is no other auberge in the town, it means walking to the next town. . . .well, for me, it basically means falling apart. . .
And that is that, my whole day planned from beginning to end . . . .
I will leave you with hug and a kiss and go and sort my backpack ready to go tomorrow morning.
P.S. I have not been able to upload any photos. . .will make a plan. .. otherwise you will just have to buy the book. ..
Much love!!
Willemien
Thursday 15 September 2011
Camino Lessons
Hello All,
I have not been able to update the blog as not all auberges have internet facilities and if it is available, you can imagine the line of people waiting to use it.
I slept in Azofra last night and will write another post about the last few days of my journey. Todays´post however is about things that I have learnt.
Lesson 1 : Honour Your Body, Be Kind to Your Body, Listen to Your Body.
The first 4 days or so I was not really walking my own camino. I started out walking with Sara K, who has become a treasured friend and companion, but she is fitter and faster than me. I tried to keep up with her but realised that I was not doing myself any favours. I needed frequent breaks and was pushing myself way too hard. I have chicken pox feet (visualize all the blisters!!) to show for that, not to mention the excruciating pain on the balls of my feet - but more about that later. I have now slowed down to my own pace honouring the Camino saying of ¨"The Best Pace for the Camino is Your Own Pace" Every now and again me and Sara meets up and connect over dinner, but then we each go our own pace again.
Lesson 2 - Give Attention to Nagging Pain in Your Feet.
In Estella, I went to an orthopedic store where I was fitted out with a temporary metatarsal support - I have had this nagging pain in my feet - even wearing normal shoes, but contributed it to the fact that I stand so much. It now transpires that I need special orthotics that includes a custom support for the bridge under the ball of my feet. The temporary ones are relieving some of the pain and walking is much more bearable.
Lesson 3 - Allow Life to Happen (or put differently - Learn to go With the Flow)
When I started planning this journey I read many blogs, where people opted to use a bus or have their luggage transported. I had a very judgemental attitude about this, because after all the pilgrimage is about the walk!!! Well, I am learning that the pilgrimage is not about the walking at all, but about all the other things that are happening. I have used the bus twice now, yesterday was one day to get to Azofra - because I want to visit two monasteries close by and do not want to get there on a Saturday and find them closed.
Today I will be paying the astronomical amount of about R250 to taxi to the monasteries as it is off the Camino Way - from there I will walk to Ciruena.
On Saturday I will be going to Santa Domingo de Calzada where I plan to spoil myself and book into a private pension. Oh to imagine the bliss of a room and hopefully bathroom all to myself - what luxury!!!
Lesson 4 - We Do Not Need So Much Stuff!!
In my pack I have a pair of zip off pants, a strappy stop and a shirt, 2 pairs of liner socks and 2 pairs of thick socks, 2 x sarongs, 2 sets of underwear, my sleeping bag, sheet, pillow case, towel, very basic toiletries, a travel washing line, sewing kit (for draining blisters) travel plug, first aid kit, set of thermal pants and top, rain pants, rain jacket, fleece top and thin poncho. I also have a pair of slops for showering and walking around in the evening. On my body, another pair of zip off pants, t-shirt, pair of underwear, liner socks and thick socks. My pack is still too heavy. On top of this, I have to carry my food for the day and at least one and a half litres of water.
I plan to mail my raingear on 10 days at a time to relieve the weight of the pack a bit. The heavy pack also contributes to my feet getting sore, so I will do anything to alleviate that. Many old Spanish gentleman have walked past me commenting - "Mucho Peso, Mucho Peso for the Camino" I just laugh and say Si, Si. . .what can I do, I will be here covering the change of season and have to be prepared for the rain.
Lesson 5 - Sharing Bedrooms and Bathrooms = It is nearly two weeks into my walk and I am surviving!! I am not specifically enjoying this part of the learning but I am certainly none the worse for it.
I have met some amazing people so far - some only walking for a week or 10 days, others doing the whole journey. I will meet some of them again on the way, others I will never see again. That is the way of the Camino.
Look out for my post about Spanish Fiestas and the routine of a pilgrim!!
Until then, thank you for the emails, you bless me with each one that I receive, much love to everybody!!
Ultreia!!!! On I walk. . .
Willemien (with tears in my eyes because I am also realising what wonderful people I have in my life!!))
xxxxx
I have not been able to update the blog as not all auberges have internet facilities and if it is available, you can imagine the line of people waiting to use it.
I slept in Azofra last night and will write another post about the last few days of my journey. Todays´post however is about things that I have learnt.
Lesson 1 : Honour Your Body, Be Kind to Your Body, Listen to Your Body.
The first 4 days or so I was not really walking my own camino. I started out walking with Sara K, who has become a treasured friend and companion, but she is fitter and faster than me. I tried to keep up with her but realised that I was not doing myself any favours. I needed frequent breaks and was pushing myself way too hard. I have chicken pox feet (visualize all the blisters!!) to show for that, not to mention the excruciating pain on the balls of my feet - but more about that later. I have now slowed down to my own pace honouring the Camino saying of ¨"The Best Pace for the Camino is Your Own Pace" Every now and again me and Sara meets up and connect over dinner, but then we each go our own pace again.
Lesson 2 - Give Attention to Nagging Pain in Your Feet.
In Estella, I went to an orthopedic store where I was fitted out with a temporary metatarsal support - I have had this nagging pain in my feet - even wearing normal shoes, but contributed it to the fact that I stand so much. It now transpires that I need special orthotics that includes a custom support for the bridge under the ball of my feet. The temporary ones are relieving some of the pain and walking is much more bearable.
Lesson 3 - Allow Life to Happen (or put differently - Learn to go With the Flow)
When I started planning this journey I read many blogs, where people opted to use a bus or have their luggage transported. I had a very judgemental attitude about this, because after all the pilgrimage is about the walk!!! Well, I am learning that the pilgrimage is not about the walking at all, but about all the other things that are happening. I have used the bus twice now, yesterday was one day to get to Azofra - because I want to visit two monasteries close by and do not want to get there on a Saturday and find them closed.
Today I will be paying the astronomical amount of about R250 to taxi to the monasteries as it is off the Camino Way - from there I will walk to Ciruena.
On Saturday I will be going to Santa Domingo de Calzada where I plan to spoil myself and book into a private pension. Oh to imagine the bliss of a room and hopefully bathroom all to myself - what luxury!!!
Lesson 4 - We Do Not Need So Much Stuff!!
In my pack I have a pair of zip off pants, a strappy stop and a shirt, 2 pairs of liner socks and 2 pairs of thick socks, 2 x sarongs, 2 sets of underwear, my sleeping bag, sheet, pillow case, towel, very basic toiletries, a travel washing line, sewing kit (for draining blisters) travel plug, first aid kit, set of thermal pants and top, rain pants, rain jacket, fleece top and thin poncho. I also have a pair of slops for showering and walking around in the evening. On my body, another pair of zip off pants, t-shirt, pair of underwear, liner socks and thick socks. My pack is still too heavy. On top of this, I have to carry my food for the day and at least one and a half litres of water.
I plan to mail my raingear on 10 days at a time to relieve the weight of the pack a bit. The heavy pack also contributes to my feet getting sore, so I will do anything to alleviate that. Many old Spanish gentleman have walked past me commenting - "Mucho Peso, Mucho Peso for the Camino" I just laugh and say Si, Si. . .what can I do, I will be here covering the change of season and have to be prepared for the rain.
Lesson 5 - Sharing Bedrooms and Bathrooms = It is nearly two weeks into my walk and I am surviving!! I am not specifically enjoying this part of the learning but I am certainly none the worse for it.
I have met some amazing people so far - some only walking for a week or 10 days, others doing the whole journey. I will meet some of them again on the way, others I will never see again. That is the way of the Camino.
Look out for my post about Spanish Fiestas and the routine of a pilgrim!!
Until then, thank you for the emails, you bless me with each one that I receive, much love to everybody!!
Ultreia!!!! On I walk. . .
Willemien (with tears in my eyes because I am also realising what wonderful people I have in my life!!))
xxxxx
Saturday 10 September 2011
Uterga - Day 6 of my Journey,
So here I am in Uterga and I must say after having had a shower and doing my washing I am in heaven! It is amazing what water can do for a weary soul.
Day 1 of my journey was difficult, Day 2 not so bad, but I had no idea what I set myself up for on Day 3 - the climb up and down the hill!!! to Zubiri. When I reached the sign that said Zubiri was 3.3km away I was more than ready to just fall down dead. I had no resources left, my feet were aching and when I got to the town, the first and second Auberges were Completo (full) and I had to drag my weary body to the municipal auberge which was not one of my best experiences. Not too clean, sharing bathroom with both sexes - you get my point. .. hehe. . .and me not sharing bathrooms!! AGGGGGHHHHH It was all I could do not to start crying.
Most computers do not allow download of photographs, but I will make a plan in one of the bigger cities.
Started off the next day to Arra which is about 4.5km outside of Pamplona and stayed in Trinidad de Arre - I think. . .I am writing without a guidebook now. . .it was absolute bliss. . . . lovely courtyard garden to sit in, beautiful little town and a supermicado to buy salad stuff. It was wonderful just sitting in the garden eating salad and drinking wine. This was also my cheapest meal so far. . .pilgrims menu´s in the region of 12 Euros and this cost me (including my yoghurt and fruit for breakfast the next day) about 4 Euros.
Spent yesterday in Pamplona exploring a bit. . . and left at 6 this morning to Uterga. This to me had been an easier day although it was quite steep up and down, but nothing like the bit to Zubiri. . . .On Wednesday I had serious doubts about my ability to do this. The first 3 days were not easy.
I am learning many lessons and releasing so much crap (sorry about that one), much time to think and finding myself really trusting God for strength and resilience on the difficult parts. . .Today many songs and poems just wrote themselves in my head and before I knew it - I WAS IN UTERGA!!! How amazing is that?
This first week I have really only plodded along and have not taken that many pictures. . . Realised that I am walking more from A to B to get a bed, than experiencing and being on THE WAY! Am not going to keep on doing it like this.
Well, that is it for me now, just a quick update, and will try to post again early in next week. . .I am not having an easy time, but I am still strong in my mind. . . .(kan nie nou dink wat moedeloos in Engels is nie - maar ek is nog nie moedeloos nie).
The trip to Zubiri did quite a bit of damage to my feet. I am nursing some really big blisters - which my shoes have never given me. . .hope they will get better and not worse.
In the meantime I miss everybody that I love so much. . . .and on my way up the mountain today cried many tears - specifically for my sister who passed away last year. . .
To my kids who are really cheering me on and my grandchildren. . .- I LOVE YOU ALL SO MUCH AND AM SHEDDING A TEAR HERE. . . .LAW JOE MATS!!!!!
Tomorrow I might only go as far as Los Arcos, dont know and have decided to take each day as it comes.
Remember that you can mail me on wiltheron@gmail.com I may not be able to reply but I do receive those messages on my blackberry. . . . It is great to receive an email saying that you commented on my blog or even just wishing me well.
On I walk. . .xxxx
So here I am in Uterga and I must say after having had a shower and doing my washing I am in heaven! It is amazing what water can do for a weary soul.
Day 1 of my journey was difficult, Day 2 not so bad, but I had no idea what I set myself up for on Day 3 - the climb up and down the hill!!! to Zubiri. When I reached the sign that said Zubiri was 3.3km away I was more than ready to just fall down dead. I had no resources left, my feet were aching and when I got to the town, the first and second Auberges were Completo (full) and I had to drag my weary body to the municipal auberge which was not one of my best experiences. Not too clean, sharing bathroom with both sexes - you get my point. .. hehe. . .and me not sharing bathrooms!! AGGGGGHHHHH It was all I could do not to start crying.
Most computers do not allow download of photographs, but I will make a plan in one of the bigger cities.
Started off the next day to Arra which is about 4.5km outside of Pamplona and stayed in Trinidad de Arre - I think. . .I am writing without a guidebook now. . .it was absolute bliss. . . . lovely courtyard garden to sit in, beautiful little town and a supermicado to buy salad stuff. It was wonderful just sitting in the garden eating salad and drinking wine. This was also my cheapest meal so far. . .pilgrims menu´s in the region of 12 Euros and this cost me (including my yoghurt and fruit for breakfast the next day) about 4 Euros.
Spent yesterday in Pamplona exploring a bit. . . and left at 6 this morning to Uterga. This to me had been an easier day although it was quite steep up and down, but nothing like the bit to Zubiri. . . .On Wednesday I had serious doubts about my ability to do this. The first 3 days were not easy.
I am learning many lessons and releasing so much crap (sorry about that one), much time to think and finding myself really trusting God for strength and resilience on the difficult parts. . .Today many songs and poems just wrote themselves in my head and before I knew it - I WAS IN UTERGA!!! How amazing is that?
This first week I have really only plodded along and have not taken that many pictures. . . Realised that I am walking more from A to B to get a bed, than experiencing and being on THE WAY! Am not going to keep on doing it like this.
Well, that is it for me now, just a quick update, and will try to post again early in next week. . .I am not having an easy time, but I am still strong in my mind. . . .(kan nie nou dink wat moedeloos in Engels is nie - maar ek is nog nie moedeloos nie).
The trip to Zubiri did quite a bit of damage to my feet. I am nursing some really big blisters - which my shoes have never given me. . .hope they will get better and not worse.
In the meantime I miss everybody that I love so much. . . .and on my way up the mountain today cried many tears - specifically for my sister who passed away last year. . .
To my kids who are really cheering me on and my grandchildren. . .- I LOVE YOU ALL SO MUCH AND AM SHEDDING A TEAR HERE. . . .LAW JOE MATS!!!!!
Tomorrow I might only go as far as Los Arcos, dont know and have decided to take each day as it comes.
Remember that you can mail me on wiltheron@gmail.com I may not be able to reply but I do receive those messages on my blackberry. . . . It is great to receive an email saying that you commented on my blog or even just wishing me well.
On I walk. . .xxxx
Tuesday 6 September 2011
Day 2 - Hunto to Roncesvalles,
So here I am in Roncesvalles. Cannot post photos but the auberge is brand new - or renovated rather. 4 beds in a cubicle with 3 showers, 3 toilets and 3 wash basins. Luxurious!!! No shops here, except a souvenir shop and I am still trying to replace my guide which I left in the UK.
Hoping to have a good nights sleep and will post again when I get to an internet area.
On I walk!!
Willemien
So here I am in Roncesvalles. Cannot post photos but the auberge is brand new - or renovated rather. 4 beds in a cubicle with 3 showers, 3 toilets and 3 wash basins. Luxurious!!! No shops here, except a souvenir shop and I am still trying to replace my guide which I left in the UK.
Hoping to have a good nights sleep and will post again when I get to an internet area.
On I walk!!
Willemien
Day 1 = St Jean Pied de Port - Hunto.
I am learning very fast that no plans is best. Today I left from St Jean planning to sleep at Hunto. I explored St Jean until about 11h00 and then took to the road. Dark clouds were gathering behind me and I barely started walking when the rain started pouring. Real Cape Town Winter Rain!! Very soon the path was shrouded in mist and rain and very steep. I missed the sign for Hunto because there was no visibility and I was really battling up the very steep hill, just putting one foot in front of the other. Next thing I know I was at Orisson, but there was no beds left and I had to go back to Hunto. Hunto was good. I shared a room with a lovely French Gentleman. . .he did not snore and we both slept well! It was great having one bathroom between the two of us, but I am still getting used to sharing with other women and also men.
Cannot post any pictures on this computer but will update as soon as I can.
Buen Camino
Willemien
I am learning very fast that no plans is best. Today I left from St Jean planning to sleep at Hunto. I explored St Jean until about 11h00 and then took to the road. Dark clouds were gathering behind me and I barely started walking when the rain started pouring. Real Cape Town Winter Rain!! Very soon the path was shrouded in mist and rain and very steep. I missed the sign for Hunto because there was no visibility and I was really battling up the very steep hill, just putting one foot in front of the other. Next thing I know I was at Orisson, but there was no beds left and I had to go back to Hunto. Hunto was good. I shared a room with a lovely French Gentleman. . .he did not snore and we both slept well! It was great having one bathroom between the two of us, but I am still getting used to sharing with other women and also men.
Cannot post any pictures on this computer but will update as soon as I can.
Buen Camino
Willemien
Sunday 4 September 2011
St Jean Pied de Port
Ok, this is a very quick post, just to say that I am in St Jean; starting the walk over the Pyrenees in a bit, going to explore St Jean first.
Was going to stay over in Bayonne last night but then decided to take a taxi to St Jean instead. Lovely Auberge that I stayed in, however not much sleeping because of snoring. . . can not find all the keys on this keyboard. . . adding a photo or two. . . .
Until next blog, buen camino to all of you. xxx
Was going to stay over in Bayonne last night but then decided to take a taxi to St Jean instead. Lovely Auberge that I stayed in, however not much sleeping because of snoring. . . can not find all the keys on this keyboard. . . adding a photo or two. . . .
Until next blog, buen camino to all of you. xxx
Friday 2 September 2011
Stages of the Journey 2
In the previous blog I posted pictures of the first 4 stages of the journey (more or less). I will not be following the stages exactly as set out in these pictures but it gives you a good idea of elevation and kilometres.
Stage 5
Stage 6
Stage 7
Stage 8
I plan to keep walking to Finisterre after I get to Santiago, want to see what the end of the world looks like!! :-)
Well, there you have it, the route that I will be following!
Ultreia!
Willemien
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