Thursday, 13 October 2011
I am in Arca O Pino, only 20kms from Santiago.
The last 5 weeks had many ups and downs, a fall, a getting up again and lots of pain and limping. And yet, here I am, nearing the end of my journey to Santiago.
I initially planned to walk another 4 days to Finnisterre but with the pain in my ankle decided that I would bus there, and maybe one day return. . who knows what the future holds?
For all of those who mailed and asked about my ankle. . no it is not the leg that I broke in 2009 - it is my right leg. The swelling has gone down considerably, the only pain now is from a ligament that will take another 4 weeks or so to heal properly.
Some of my fellow pilgrims thinks that I am hardheaded. . .others just think that I am plain stupid. . . but I could not just stop the journey halfway. I bussed some of it and walked short stretches. I do feel that I have missed out on the experience of Galicea. Galicea to my mind, is the most beautiful part of the Camino. If I ever do return I will walk again from Sarria. . .
Tomorrow I arrive in Santiago. I plan to bus to the end of the world on Saturday, spend the night there - I have to see the sun dipping into the sea - and then back to Santiago on Sunday, spending another day or two there.
I do believe that things happen for a reason. The group that I walked with for most of the journey has now finished their Camino and all have gone home - or the ones who took rest days in Leon - is behind me. I hope to meet at least some of them in Santiago. I have met some lovely new people over the last couple of days. . people I have not travelled with before. Lots of talking over bottles of good Galicea wine and eating pulpo. . .a delicacy in Galicea and very very good.
How simple my life had become. I find myself with long stretches after walking and arriving in the next town of doing nothing, nada, zero, zilch! Not an easy thing for me! The best part of this is the realisation that there is nothing wrong with doing nothing. . . At some level the learning continues. Just sitting in the plaza soaking up the sun, looking at the people passing. . .I could come and live here in Spain!!
I will probably only update the blog once I am back in Britian. Would really like to upload some photographs so that you can experience this in pictures as well. Words can become quite boring. . .
Well, that is me for today. . .
I have gone from wild peregrino to walking, eating, sleeping peregrino, stupid peregrino, hungry peregrino, wild peregrino, bathroom annoyed peregrino, falling, getting up, walking with pain peregino, crying peregrino, wild and limping peregrino and still the circle is not complete. . . will it ever be, I wonder.
In the meantime,
Ultreia,
Wild and Limping but Satisfied with Life Peregrino
Thursday, 13 October 2011
Wednesday, 12 October 2011
3 Days to Santiago!!!
Blogging from my cell phone. I am in Galicea and should be in Santiago by Friday!
It feels very surreal and although my journey did not go exactly as I planned it, I feel loath to stop. .
Will do a proper update as soon as I can find an internet cafe. .
Limping Peregrino
------------------
Thursday, 6 October 2011
Sarria and Hospitals
I am in Sarria now, spent the day at the local hospital, getting my foot checked out.
I have hurt (not torn) the ligaments in my right foot and I have arthritis!! in my right foot and the fall caused me to get inflammation. So the pharmacia said I sprained my ankle, the doctor say yes, but the sprain caused the arhtritis to get inflamed. I must say I do not understand a word of it.
I could stop walking, but I am only 100 odd kilometres away from Santiago. I could rest for 2 more days as prescribed by the doctor and then start walking really short stages of 5 - 10 kms. Right now I have no idea what to do. . give up and come back. .or try to finish???
I will keep you up to date as soon as a decision has been made.
Much Love
Confused Peregrino
I have hurt (not torn) the ligaments in my right foot and I have arthritis!! in my right foot and the fall caused me to get inflammation. So the pharmacia said I sprained my ankle, the doctor say yes, but the sprain caused the arhtritis to get inflamed. I must say I do not understand a word of it.
I could stop walking, but I am only 100 odd kilometres away from Santiago. I could rest for 2 more days as prescribed by the doctor and then start walking really short stages of 5 - 10 kms. Right now I have no idea what to do. . give up and come back. .or try to finish???
I will keep you up to date as soon as a decision has been made.
Much Love
Confused Peregrino
Sunday, 2 October 2011
In Astorga the Tears Started
On the way to Astorga the tears started.
I have been crying now for 2 days and there is no stopping the tears.
Every kind deed - Jerry the Irishman taking my pack of my back and taking it upstairs, claiming a bed for me, Sweet Tina giving me a hug - it all just opens the floodgates.
I am having so much difficulty to show vulnerability
so much difficulty to do things the easy way
I am having so much difficulty to show that I am weak
and yet I have no resources left, nothing to stop the tears, they just keep coming, why do I have to understand why?
I write a long piece in my journal about all my tears, too personal and painful to share on my blog.
Amongst other things I am crying for my sister who died in pain and all alone with no one to hold her hand and comfort her.
I am crying for all the people who are living with hurt. Broken people who do not know the way out of all the heartache and pain.
I am crying 50 years of tears, which I have been holding back, always being strong, never showing emotion, always comforting other people.
I am crying for years of believing that I am not enough, a story I know I told myself - a story that was not true.
I am crying
I am crying
I am crying
Crying Peregrino
I have been crying now for 2 days and there is no stopping the tears.
Every kind deed - Jerry the Irishman taking my pack of my back and taking it upstairs, claiming a bed for me, Sweet Tina giving me a hug - it all just opens the floodgates.
I am having so much difficulty to show vulnerability
so much difficulty to do things the easy way
I am having so much difficulty to show that I am weak
and yet I have no resources left, nothing to stop the tears, they just keep coming, why do I have to understand why?
I write a long piece in my journal about all my tears, too personal and painful to share on my blog.
Amongst other things I am crying for my sister who died in pain and all alone with no one to hold her hand and comfort her.
I am crying for all the people who are living with hurt. Broken people who do not know the way out of all the heartache and pain.
I am crying 50 years of tears, which I have been holding back, always being strong, never showing emotion, always comforting other people.
I am crying for years of believing that I am not enough, a story I know I told myself - a story that was not true.
I am crying
I am crying
I am crying
Crying Peregrino
At Fromista I Fell
To dry one´s eyes and laugh at a fall,
and, baffled, get up and begin again. Robert Browning
At Fromista I fell and got up again, dusted myself off and kept walking, because this is what I do. . I fall, I get up, I go on, I fall, I get up, I go on. . I have always been able to get up and begin again.
After a very slow walk into Carrion de Los Condes, a visit to the pharmacia and many Voltarens and Voltaren Gels later, I sat down at a sidewalk cafe.
In the true spirit of the Camino Karin who I have met 2 or 3 times before came around the corner and we spent a good afternoon together.
Walking was now becoming a big problem for me and I took the train from Sahagun to Leon where I spent 3 days giving my foot/ankle a rest. I am now walking with a brace on my right ankle and the going is not easy.
Peregrino in Pain. .
and, baffled, get up and begin again. Robert Browning
At Fromista I fell and got up again, dusted myself off and kept walking, because this is what I do. . I fall, I get up, I go on, I fall, I get up, I go on. . I have always been able to get up and begin again.
After a very slow walk into Carrion de Los Condes, a visit to the pharmacia and many Voltarens and Voltaren Gels later, I sat down at a sidewalk cafe.
In the true spirit of the Camino Karin who I have met 2 or 3 times before came around the corner and we spent a good afternoon together.
Walking was now becoming a big problem for me and I took the train from Sahagun to Leon where I spent 3 days giving my foot/ankle a rest. I am now walking with a brace on my right ankle and the going is not easy.
Peregrino in Pain. .
Tuesday, 27 September 2011
Walking, Eating and Sleeping
Oh how I wish I could upload pictures!!!!
This post is all about walking, eating and sleeping. The walking part is difficult for me. It would have been much easier if I had been much fitter. . . but here I am, hopefully getting fitter every day, but suffering because I did not do enough training beforehand.
I would usually start walking when it is still dark. Have some beautiful sunrise photos. . that I can not share. . .
Walking is easier for me if there is little villages every 4km´s or so. If it is a long stretch it just seems to go on and on and ooooon. . .I would usually stop at a bar - always open - always ready to serve the peregrino - and have a cup of coffee, coca cola or. . . wait for it. . .a beer with lemon. . .very refreshing and yes I have now started drinking beer early in the day. . . :-)
Lunch would usually be fruit, or bread and cheese, whatever I could buy in the last village and then obviously lots of water to keep hydrated. The sun gets really hot here in Spain, very much like a South African summer day - I have walked in temperatures of 34° on occasion.
I usually read up about all the accommodation and choose a place that looks good, but by the time I reach my planned destination I just take the first auberge that pops up in front of me. . .sometimes they dont pop up and you have to go searching for them. . .
The auberges are mostly at least 8 beds in a room, more often than not 20 - 50 in the same room. Beds are usually bunk beds, I have stayed in 2 places that had single beds and loved it. Mostly 2 toilets and 2 showers, but some of the bigger ones might have 4 toilets and showers to one dormitory. I have only on one occasion found an auberge that separated women and men (this includes the bathrooms). This I have to say takes some getting used to for me. . . I have also on accasion had people walk around, lie around or lounge around in their underwear only. This does not sit well with me. .
I find that when I am walking, even if I know that there is something really interesting, I just do not have the energy to explore or take photographs.
The only times I really take photographs is after I have reached my destination, claimed my bed and had my shower.
Some of the auberges - usually the ones that is connected to a parish, will cook a communal meal and offer you breakfast. If the auberge does not have good kitchen facilities then you have to GO OUT ON THE TOWN and have the pilgrims menu. The Pilgrims Menu can cost anything from 8 to 12 Euros and always includes a starter, main course and dessert as well as wine.
Well, there you have it. . all in a days´ work . . .
As always, much love. . .
Wild Peregrino
This post is all about walking, eating and sleeping. The walking part is difficult for me. It would have been much easier if I had been much fitter. . . but here I am, hopefully getting fitter every day, but suffering because I did not do enough training beforehand.
I would usually start walking when it is still dark. Have some beautiful sunrise photos. . that I can not share. . .
Walking is easier for me if there is little villages every 4km´s or so. If it is a long stretch it just seems to go on and on and ooooon. . .I would usually stop at a bar - always open - always ready to serve the peregrino - and have a cup of coffee, coca cola or. . . wait for it. . .a beer with lemon. . .very refreshing and yes I have now started drinking beer early in the day. . . :-)
Lunch would usually be fruit, or bread and cheese, whatever I could buy in the last village and then obviously lots of water to keep hydrated. The sun gets really hot here in Spain, very much like a South African summer day - I have walked in temperatures of 34° on occasion.
I usually read up about all the accommodation and choose a place that looks good, but by the time I reach my planned destination I just take the first auberge that pops up in front of me. . .sometimes they dont pop up and you have to go searching for them. . .
The auberges are mostly at least 8 beds in a room, more often than not 20 - 50 in the same room. Beds are usually bunk beds, I have stayed in 2 places that had single beds and loved it. Mostly 2 toilets and 2 showers, but some of the bigger ones might have 4 toilets and showers to one dormitory. I have only on one occasion found an auberge that separated women and men (this includes the bathrooms). This I have to say takes some getting used to for me. . . I have also on accasion had people walk around, lie around or lounge around in their underwear only. This does not sit well with me. .
I find that when I am walking, even if I know that there is something really interesting, I just do not have the energy to explore or take photographs.
The only times I really take photographs is after I have reached my destination, claimed my bed and had my shower.
Some of the auberges - usually the ones that is connected to a parish, will cook a communal meal and offer you breakfast. If the auberge does not have good kitchen facilities then you have to GO OUT ON THE TOWN and have the pilgrims menu. The Pilgrims Menu can cost anything from 8 to 12 Euros and always includes a starter, main course and dessert as well as wine.
Well, there you have it. . all in a days´ work . . .
As always, much love. . .
Wild Peregrino
Footprints
I am a very much a solo pilgrim. Around me people form little groups, walking together and meeting up every now and again.
I enjoy the solitude of walking alone, sitting at a sidewalk cafe having coffee and immersed in my own thoughts.
When I walk and I see all the footprints left by the pilgrims who have gone before me on the day, I wonder how many hundreds of pilgrims have walked this path in the last year and how many thousands through the ages. . .
I wonder how many broken and wounded spirits, people with heavy burdens (not the ones on their backs), hurting people, have walked this way before. How many people have gone this way in search of answers, in search of God, in search of healing, worn down with worry, sorrow and pain. How many of them have found what they were looking for? How many knew what they were looking for? How many has given up? How many has continued the growth even after the Camino journey ended?
Many questions go through my mind. Mostly unanswered. People ask me if I am enjoying my holiday - but this is not a holiday. I could have gone to some excotic place and have a really good time for the same money. But this is more - it is a quest, a journey, a searching, a yearning that I can not explain in words.
I am certainly learning to let go off all my little quirks . . . on the Camino you simply do not have the luxury of doing things your way, or having things your way. I dry my face and my hair and my body and my shoes with the same towel and then put the towel on my wet hair again!!! Oh, the little stupid things that holds us bondage. At home I would never wipe my shoes dry and use the same towel for my hair or my body. . and what does it matter really???? What matters is that I have hot water for a shower and a bug free bed. . .that is just so much more important . . and an added bonus is an alimentation - a store where I can buy fruit for the next day´s breakfast or lunch. Finding Yogurt makes my day and if I find an auberge with a proper kitchen - well I am in heaven, because then I can make a salad and do not have to eat the Pilgrims Dinner.
More on the next blog about eating and sleeping. . .
Until then,
Ultreia!!!
Wild Peregrino
I enjoy the solitude of walking alone, sitting at a sidewalk cafe having coffee and immersed in my own thoughts.
When I walk and I see all the footprints left by the pilgrims who have gone before me on the day, I wonder how many hundreds of pilgrims have walked this path in the last year and how many thousands through the ages. . .
I wonder how many broken and wounded spirits, people with heavy burdens (not the ones on their backs), hurting people, have walked this way before. How many people have gone this way in search of answers, in search of God, in search of healing, worn down with worry, sorrow and pain. How many of them have found what they were looking for? How many knew what they were looking for? How many has given up? How many has continued the growth even after the Camino journey ended?
Many questions go through my mind. Mostly unanswered. People ask me if I am enjoying my holiday - but this is not a holiday. I could have gone to some excotic place and have a really good time for the same money. But this is more - it is a quest, a journey, a searching, a yearning that I can not explain in words.
I am certainly learning to let go off all my little quirks . . . on the Camino you simply do not have the luxury of doing things your way, or having things your way. I dry my face and my hair and my body and my shoes with the same towel and then put the towel on my wet hair again!!! Oh, the little stupid things that holds us bondage. At home I would never wipe my shoes dry and use the same towel for my hair or my body. . and what does it matter really???? What matters is that I have hot water for a shower and a bug free bed. . .that is just so much more important . . and an added bonus is an alimentation - a store where I can buy fruit for the next day´s breakfast or lunch. Finding Yogurt makes my day and if I find an auberge with a proper kitchen - well I am in heaven, because then I can make a salad and do not have to eat the Pilgrims Dinner.
More on the next blog about eating and sleeping. . .
Until then,
Ultreia!!!
Wild Peregrino
Camino Lessons
More and more I am learning that the Camino is in fact an inner journey that you take. I might be walking strange paths and through fascinating little villages and meeting interesting people, but really the journey is inside myself. It is also not a journey that will end when I reach Santiago or Finnisterre but it is a journey that should never end.
By the end of my third week I was walking really well. All my feet problems have been sorted out and my blisters started turning into callouses. . .never thought I would think that callouses is good, but when you walk it certainly is!
On Sunday morning I left Boadilla del Camino after spending a night in a wonderful auberge - En El Camino - complete with swimming pool nogal!! All facilities were great and there was also the delightful Eduardo who told me that I am sweet enough. . . A wonderful family and Eduardo a bit of a flirt but all in good spirit.
As I walked out of Fromista I wanted to climb up from the road to the walkway but slipped and fell. A little bit shaken I assessed the damage and concluded that I only scraped my right shin a bit.
I stopped for coffee in Poblacion de Campos to lift my flagging spirits and when I started walking again was dismayed to find that my right ankle was swollen, stiff and painful.
The next six kilometers were not my best. I made it to Villarmentero de Campos where I stayed the night. . . shared the accommodation with 4 French people and 3 mice! The mice were nice!! Not my best night. . .
The nagging question for me - what is it that I have to learn?? The first two and a half weeks of my journey I was in pain most of the time so really did not enjoy the walking. I have gone from 22 - 25kms a day to abut 16 - 20 kms a day. So, if the lesson for me was to SLOW DOWN - then I have certainly done so. I HAVE SLOWED DOWN!! I really believed that this was one of the things that the Camino is teaching me. . .but falling and hurting my right leg?????? REALLY!!! I am just a tiny little bit fed up.
I know that for many years I have not always been listening to my body and maybe also ignored pain. . . physical as well as emotional. So maybe I need to learn to FEEL? FEEL the pain, push through and move on. . .
Those of you who know me well will know that I do not lack resilience and yet at the moment I feel as if I have none.
I am taking the train into Leon tomorrow morning to give my leg a rest and will then start walking again from there.
Keep the emails coming. . I really need it. . and thank you to all of you who mail me every now and then with a word of encouragement!
Ultreia!!!! On, and on, and on I walk (why am I doing this again??)
Wild Peregrino :-)
By the end of my third week I was walking really well. All my feet problems have been sorted out and my blisters started turning into callouses. . .never thought I would think that callouses is good, but when you walk it certainly is!
On Sunday morning I left Boadilla del Camino after spending a night in a wonderful auberge - En El Camino - complete with swimming pool nogal!! All facilities were great and there was also the delightful Eduardo who told me that I am sweet enough. . . A wonderful family and Eduardo a bit of a flirt but all in good spirit.
As I walked out of Fromista I wanted to climb up from the road to the walkway but slipped and fell. A little bit shaken I assessed the damage and concluded that I only scraped my right shin a bit.
I stopped for coffee in Poblacion de Campos to lift my flagging spirits and when I started walking again was dismayed to find that my right ankle was swollen, stiff and painful.
The next six kilometers were not my best. I made it to Villarmentero de Campos where I stayed the night. . . shared the accommodation with 4 French people and 3 mice! The mice were nice!! Not my best night. . .
The nagging question for me - what is it that I have to learn?? The first two and a half weeks of my journey I was in pain most of the time so really did not enjoy the walking. I have gone from 22 - 25kms a day to abut 16 - 20 kms a day. So, if the lesson for me was to SLOW DOWN - then I have certainly done so. I HAVE SLOWED DOWN!! I really believed that this was one of the things that the Camino is teaching me. . .but falling and hurting my right leg?????? REALLY!!! I am just a tiny little bit fed up.
I know that for many years I have not always been listening to my body and maybe also ignored pain. . . physical as well as emotional. So maybe I need to learn to FEEL? FEEL the pain, push through and move on. . .
Those of you who know me well will know that I do not lack resilience and yet at the moment I feel as if I have none.
I am taking the train into Leon tomorrow morning to give my leg a rest and will then start walking again from there.
Keep the emails coming. . I really need it. . and thank you to all of you who mail me every now and then with a word of encouragement!
Ultreia!!!! On, and on, and on I walk (why am I doing this again??)
Wild Peregrino :-)
Saturday, 24 September 2011
Boadilla del Camino
Boadilla del Camino today! Really beautiful auberge with a swimming pool nogal!! Unfortunately I mailed my swimsuit on to Santiago (I can always do the naked thing. . . heheh)
Taking me some time to get used to people walking in their underwear only. It does not sit well with me. . and last night it was an elderly lady lounging around in her panties and 50ish gentleman walking around in his underpants only. SO NOT A PRETTY PICTURE. . . I HAD NIGHTMARES LAST NIGHT!!
As dit nou ´n jong 28 jarige mannetjie was, sou ek dalk nie gekla het nie. . ;-)
I am beginning to get my own rythm although I must say that walking in the heat today I wondered what on earth I was doing and whatever got into me when I started planning this. . .
Monday will be the start of my 4th week!!! It is amazing how the days just flow into each other and how difficult it has become to keep track of which day of the week it is. .
My feet is good as long as I dont try to do 25km stretches. . and they are really happy when I stop around 20kms.
Thats all from me for now. . . sitting working on a fairly new laptop so I am going to try and upload some photographs.
Mucho Love!!
xxxx
Wild Peregrino
Taking me some time to get used to people walking in their underwear only. It does not sit well with me. . and last night it was an elderly lady lounging around in her panties and 50ish gentleman walking around in his underpants only. SO NOT A PRETTY PICTURE. . . I HAD NIGHTMARES LAST NIGHT!!
As dit nou ´n jong 28 jarige mannetjie was, sou ek dalk nie gekla het nie. . ;-)
I am beginning to get my own rythm although I must say that walking in the heat today I wondered what on earth I was doing and whatever got into me when I started planning this. . .
Monday will be the start of my 4th week!!! It is amazing how the days just flow into each other and how difficult it has become to keep track of which day of the week it is. .
My feet is good as long as I dont try to do 25km stretches. . and they are really happy when I stop around 20kms.
Thats all from me for now. . . sitting working on a fairly new laptop so I am going to try and upload some photographs.
Mucho Love!!
xxxx
Wild Peregrino
Thursday, 22 September 2011
The Meseta
Just a quick note, to put you all at ease. The melancholy left me once I started walking on the Meseta.. .
Last night someone asked me why I was doing the Camino. I could not really give them an answer.
All of you are sending me lovele messages saying, clear your head, fight your demons, leave everything behind.. ..
Am I doing any of this. . I honestly do not know.
Am I clearing my Head : I dont know
Am I getting answers : I dont know
Am I leaving things behind : I dont know
Maybe at some unconscious level I am doing some clearing etc. but honestly right now I feel as if all I am doing is putting one foot in front of the other to get to the next town.
I am walking easier and finding my rythm, nearly 3 weeks into the camino. . . blisters getting better. . . feet not so sore anymore. . . hmmm. . . I can do a rhyme here. . . sore, more, blore, blore, blore. . .
The lesson that I am learning is that maybe I am doing the Camino to learn to slow down instead of speeding up. . .
Until next time, because this flicking keyboard is driving me up the ancient walls of this village. . .where am I again today . . . oh yes . .. Hontana. . .
It is difficult to believe that I have been walking for nearly three weeks now. . . time passes without me really having any idea of what day of the week it is. . .
Nearly half way. . .
Much love,
Wild Peregrino. .
Last night someone asked me why I was doing the Camino. I could not really give them an answer.
All of you are sending me lovele messages saying, clear your head, fight your demons, leave everything behind.. ..
Am I doing any of this. . I honestly do not know.
Am I clearing my Head : I dont know
Am I getting answers : I dont know
Am I leaving things behind : I dont know
Maybe at some unconscious level I am doing some clearing etc. but honestly right now I feel as if all I am doing is putting one foot in front of the other to get to the next town.
I am walking easier and finding my rythm, nearly 3 weeks into the camino. . . blisters getting better. . . feet not so sore anymore. . . hmmm. . . I can do a rhyme here. . . sore, more, blore, blore, blore. . .
The lesson that I am learning is that maybe I am doing the Camino to learn to slow down instead of speeding up. . .
Until next time, because this flicking keyboard is driving me up the ancient walls of this village. . .where am I again today . . . oh yes . .. Hontana. . .
It is difficult to believe that I have been walking for nearly three weeks now. . . time passes without me really having any idea of what day of the week it is. . .
Nearly half way. . .
Much love,
Wild Peregrino. .
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