Goodbye Santiago/Hello Life

Goodbye St James the Pilgrim and St James the Matamoor Slayer.

I flew out of Santiago on Tuesday 18 October 2011. This was 5 days earlier than I planned, but with me not walking to Finisterre I found myself all of a sudden restless and ready to go.

My plane left from La Coruna airport which was about an hour by bus from Santiago. The bus driver thought he was doing me a favour and dropped me off on the highway. There I was, trekking (limping) up the hill not sure where I was going. But all was well, soon the aeroporto appeared on my left hand side, people were speaking English and I was on my way to Britian.

Sitting at the airport I had mixed feelings, some sadness, elation because I was going to see my kids and a feeling of having left something somewhere. Maybe a little bit of myself stayed behind.

This is the 2nd to last post on the El Camino and I hope you enjoyed journeying with me on the Field of Stars.

Perplexed Peregrino

Pilgrims Mass and Swinging of the Botafumeiro

I went to the Pilgrims Mass on Saturday. Very little English, so I did not get much of the message but it felt special somehow and by now I was over my initial disgust of all the tourists who were doing the pilgrim thing!

The most amazing part of the mass was the swinging of the Botafumeiro. On Friday night I met a pilgrim who walked the Portuguese Route and he told me that the Botafumeiro was swinging on the Friday and that it was still hanging there, which meant it would swing again. Well, it swinged!!! This is a highlight of the pilgrimage and I felt very priviledged to see it. (I did smile when the priests were applauded very loudly at the end of it and realised that most people were there not for the mass but for the Swinging of the Thingy)!

The Santiago de Compostela Botafumeiro is the largest censer in the world, weighing 80 kg and measuring 1.60 m in height. It is usually on exhibition in the library of the cathedral, but on holy days it is attached to the pulley mechanism and filled with 40 kg of charcoal and incense. It takes 6 to 8 men (priests) to pull the ropes and bring it into a swinging motion almost to the roof of the transept, reaching speeds of 60 km/h and dispensing thick clouds of incense. One tradition has it that the use of a swinging censer in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral began in the 11th century to mask the smell of the tired and unwashed pilgrims. It was also believed that incense smoke had a prophylactic effect in the time of plagues and epidemics. Of course, incense burning is also an important part of the liturgy, being an "oration to God", or form of prayer.

Some technical info for those of you who are interested : The Botafumeiro can reach speeds of 68 km/h as it dispenses thick clouds of incense. At the top of the swing, it reaches heights of 21 meters. It swings in a 65 meter arc between the Azabachería and Praterias doorways at the ends of the transept. The maximum angle achieved is about 82°. The maximum can be reached after about 17 cycles, and requires about 80 seconds of swinging. It costs about R3000 to fill it and swing it, so I was really very surprised to find myself being part of this.


It is quite spectacular and goes hand in hand with people shrieking and sighing as it swings above their heads and miss the stained glass windows. I am sure there would be a video on Youtube for those of you who would like to see this.

Incensed Peregrino

Finisterra

When I started planning my pilgrimage I really wanted to continue from Santiago to Finisterra which was another 5 days of walking. However, my foot was not getting better, swelling down in the mornings and then very bad if I walked a lot during the day. The way to Finisterre had many little hills and valleys and I realised that the clever thing would be to take a bus - so, for all of you non believers out there,I am not as hard headed as you think I am!!!

I took a bus to Finisterre on Sunday the 16th of October and what a beautiful 3 hour ride it was. I might go back - big might - and walk this last bit for myself.

In the times of the Romans and Celts, Finisterre (called "finis terrae") was considered to be at the farthest edge of the north westerly land mass and was described as "the end of the earth" (in Latin, "finis terrae" means "end of the world"). Finisterre also possesses a reputation for being on "the coast of death", since many vessels have left the port, never to return.

I met the lovely Irishman Paul and spend the day on the beach with him. On the way back to the bus stop we met up with Eli and the two of us forged an immediate bond. Spent some time with her in Santiago. Finisterre is magical, the beaches are beautiful and sitting there I got this deep, deep longing for Bloubergstrand and everything South African.

The mist started rolling in as we left Finisterra and somehow I knew that my journey had come to an end. . not just the physical journey but also the inner journey. Sitting on the beach, I knew that I have found an inner peace that would not be easily disturbed by whatever life choose to throw at me when I go back.

Peaceful Peregrino

Santiago!!

I walked into Santiago on Friday the 14th October at about 3 in the afternoon fully expecting a red carpet, rose petals, trumpets and the bishop (no less) to greet me after my long and arduous journey! What a let-down it was. Nobody even knew that I arrived!!

Traditionally, the Pilgrims Journey ends with a walk up the stairs to the Statue of St James but there were so many tourists in the cathedral and a long line waiting to go up the stairs. Oh!! The disgust I experienced when I saw them all with a newly bought staff with gourd and shell. This was being sold just outside the gate into the cathedral and I felt a self-righteous annoyance because these tourists had no idea of doing a pilgrimage and yet here they are strutting around with their wooden staffs! Tut, tut, Willemien!! Judgements, judgements. . and I thought I was getting so good and not judging. I proceeded to the pilgrims office to claim my compostela. . and once again. . .no fanfare, no “Wow!! You walked all the way from St Jean??” Nada, nothing, niks, more disgust. . .This is obviously all in fun, but I did experience Santiago as very touristy.
Anyway, this was not a good moment for me so I decided to go and find my pension, book in, have a shower and just generally ease myself into the hustle and bustle of Santiago.
Santiago is very expensive compared to the more rural areas – paid 20 Euros for a plate of Spaghetti Bolognaise and a glass of wine! Buying my Euros with South African Rands obviously did not help! Beer with Lemon went from between 1.50 and 2.50 Euros to 4 Euros and coffee was also more expensive. I walked around Santiago (or rather limped), slept really well that night and set out to explore more of the city the next morning.
I could still not believe that I was in Santiago, that I have done it, that is is over!!

Amazed Peregrino

Arca O Pino

Thursday, 13 October 2011

I am in Arca O Pino, only 20kms from Santiago.

The last 5 weeks had many ups and downs, a fall, a getting up again and lots of pain and limping. And yet, here I am, nearing the end of my journey to Santiago.

I initially planned to walk another 4 days to Finnisterre but with the pain in my ankle decided that I would bus there, and maybe one day return. . who knows what the future holds?

For all of those who mailed and asked about my ankle. . no it is not the leg that I broke in 2009 - it is my right leg. The swelling has gone down considerably, the only pain now is from a ligament that will take another 4 weeks or so to heal properly.

Some of my fellow pilgrims thinks that I am hardheaded. . .others just think that I am plain stupid. . . but I could not just stop the journey halfway. I bussed some of it and walked short stretches. I do feel that I have missed out on the experience of Galicea. Galicea to my mind, is the most beautiful part of the Camino. If I ever do return I will walk again from Sarria. . .

Tomorrow I arrive in Santiago. I plan to bus to the end of the world on Saturday, spend the night there - I have to see the sun dipping into the sea - and then back to Santiago on Sunday, spending another day or two there.

I do believe that things happen for a reason. The group that I walked with for most of the journey has now finished their Camino and all have gone home - or the ones who took rest days in Leon - is behind me. I hope to meet at least some of them in Santiago. I have met some lovely new people over the last couple of days. . people I have not travelled with before. Lots of talking over bottles of good Galicea wine and eating pulpo. . .a delicacy in Galicea and very very good.

How simple my life had become. I find myself with long stretches after walking and arriving in the next town of doing nothing, nada, zero, zilch! Not an easy thing for me! The best part of this is the realisation that there is nothing wrong with doing nothing. . . At some level the learning continues. Just sitting in the plaza soaking up the sun, looking at the people passing. . .I could come and live here in Spain!!

I will probably only update the blog once I am back in Britian. Would really like to upload some photographs so that you can experience this in pictures as well. Words can become quite boring. . .

Well, that is me for today. . .

I have gone from wild peregrino to walking, eating, sleeping peregrino, stupid peregrino, hungry peregrino, wild peregrino, bathroom annoyed peregrino, falling, getting up, walking with pain peregino, crying peregrino, wild and limping peregrino and still the circle is not complete. . . will it ever be, I wonder.

In the meantime,

Ultreia,

Wild and Limping but Satisfied with Life Peregrino

3 Days to Santiago!!!

Blogging from my cell phone. I am in Galicea and should be in Santiago by Friday!

It feels very surreal and although my journey did not go exactly as I planned it, I feel loath to stop. .

Will do a proper update as soon as I can find an internet cafe. .

Limping Peregrino
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Sarria and Hospitals

I am in Sarria now, spent the day at the local hospital, getting my foot checked out.

I have hurt (not torn) the ligaments in my right foot and I have arthritis!! in my right foot and the fall caused me to get inflammation. So the pharmacia said I sprained my ankle, the doctor say yes, but the sprain caused the arhtritis to get inflamed. I must say I do not understand a word of it.

I could stop walking, but I am only 100 odd kilometres away from Santiago. I could rest for 2 more days as prescribed by the doctor and then start walking really short stages of 5 - 10 kms. Right now I have no idea what to do. . give up and come back. .or try to finish???

I will keep you up to date as soon as a decision has been made.

Much Love

Confused Peregrino

In Astorga the Tears Started

On the way to Astorga the tears started.

I have been crying now for 2 days and there is no stopping the tears.

Every kind deed - Jerry the Irishman taking my pack of my back and taking it upstairs, claiming a bed for me, Sweet Tina giving me a hug - it all just opens the floodgates.

I am having so much difficulty to show vulnerability
so much difficulty to do things the easy way
I am having so much difficulty to show that I am weak
and yet I have no resources left, nothing to stop the tears, they just keep coming, why do I have to understand why?

I write a long piece in my journal about all my tears, too personal and painful to share on my blog.

Amongst other things I am crying for my sister who died in pain and all alone with no one to hold her hand and comfort her.

I am crying for all the people who are living with hurt. Broken people who do not know the way out of all the heartache and pain.

I am crying 50 years of tears, which I have been holding back, always being strong, never showing emotion, always comforting other people.

I am crying for years of believing that I am not enough, a story I know I told myself - a story that was not true.

I am crying
I am crying
I am crying

Crying Peregrino

At Fromista I Fell

To dry one´s eyes and laugh at a fall,
and, baffled, get up and begin again. Robert Browning

At Fromista I fell and got up again, dusted myself off and kept walking, because this is what I do. . I fall, I get up, I go on, I fall, I get up, I go on. . I have always been able to get up and begin again.

After a very slow walk into Carrion de Los Condes, a visit to the pharmacia and many Voltarens and Voltaren Gels later, I sat down at a sidewalk cafe.

In the true spirit of the Camino Karin who I have met 2 or 3 times before came around the corner and we spent a good afternoon together.

Walking was now becoming a big problem for me and I took the train from Sahagun to Leon where I spent 3 days giving my foot/ankle a rest. I am now walking with a brace on my right ankle and the going is not easy.

Peregrino in Pain. .

Walking, Eating and Sleeping

Oh how I wish I could upload pictures!!!!

This post is all about walking, eating and sleeping. The walking part is difficult for me. It would have been much easier if I had been much fitter. . . but here I am, hopefully getting fitter every day, but suffering because I did not do enough training beforehand.

I would usually start walking when it is still dark. Have some beautiful sunrise photos. . that I can not share. . .

Walking is easier for me if there is little villages every 4km´s or so. If it is a long stretch it just seems to go on and on and ooooon. . .I would usually stop at a bar - always open - always ready to serve the peregrino - and have a cup of coffee, coca cola or. . . wait for it. . .a beer with lemon. . .very refreshing and yes I have now started drinking beer early in the day. . . :-)

Lunch would usually be fruit, or bread and cheese, whatever I could buy in the last village and then obviously lots of water to keep hydrated. The sun gets really hot here in Spain, very much like a South African summer day - I have walked in temperatures of 34° on occasion.

I usually read up about all the accommodation and choose a place that looks good, but by the time I reach my planned destination I just take the first auberge that pops up in front of me. . .sometimes they dont pop up and you have to go searching for them. . .

The auberges are mostly at least 8 beds in a room, more often than not 20 - 50 in the same room. Beds are usually bunk beds, I have stayed in 2 places that had single beds and loved it. Mostly 2 toilets and 2 showers, but some of the bigger ones might have 4 toilets and showers to one dormitory. I have only on one occasion found an auberge that separated women and men (this includes the bathrooms). This I have to say takes some getting used to for me. . . I have also on accasion had people walk around, lie around or lounge around in their underwear only. This does not sit well with me. .

I find that when I am walking, even if I know that there is something really interesting, I just do not have the energy to explore or take photographs.

The only times I really take photographs is after I have reached my destination, claimed my bed and had my shower.

Some of the auberges - usually the ones that is connected to a parish, will cook a communal meal and offer you breakfast. If the auberge does not have good kitchen facilities then you have to GO OUT ON THE TOWN and have the pilgrims menu. The Pilgrims Menu can cost anything from 8 to 12 Euros and always includes a starter, main course and dessert as well as wine.

Well, there you have it. . all in a days´ work . . .

As always, much love. . .

Wild Peregrino